Tires

The Bay Area Probe Owners Club does not endorse or avoid any specific automotive business or product. Use this information and these links at your own risk. Note: Most of this information is collected from the Probe Performance List and should be considered hearsay until YOU verify for YOURSELF. Being listed here does not imply suitability for your application. I may post parts of email messages I receive. If the author objects to this policy, I will re-edit or remove the text to satisfy you.

Race Tires

Thanks to Andy Bettencourt, National Solo II champ a few times, who drove a 2nd gen PGT.

SETUP

1 degree neg. camber at all 4 wheels...MAX

3/16" toe out TOTAL @ front

1/16" toe out TOTAL @ rear - this is toe out!

With the stock shocks, the car needs to have the rear set to rotate a little. In 1995, I had zero toe in the rear and adjusted the tire pressures as I saw fit to get the rear to 'move'. The car is by no means uncontrollable and in fact, it handles like a car 500lbs lighter. This year I run the rear pressures at what they should be, so the car gets the right amount of tire on the ground while the suspension does the work. 245/45/16 BFG's at 38F, 34R - this may sound high for what some people are running. The reason for the 'Groove of Doom' is underinflation. BFG says these pressures are correct and my seat-of-the-pants tells me the same.

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I've found these pressures to be right for very grippy surfaces, but most of the parking lots here in Rochester are slippery, newly sealed asphalt. Under these conditions, I've lowered pressures to a minimum ~33F, 30R. I keep the rears a little high to help the back end move (I haven't experimented with the alignment changes mentioned above yet). For reasonably grippy surfaces, anywhere between 35 and 38F should be fine. Just watch for wear in the center groove at the lower pressures.

The R1's were $130 each when they carried them at Tire Rack. The g-Force R1's are the replacement, and the major difference, besides the tread pattern, is the g-Force has symmetrical sidewalls, ie. they're both the same stiffness (I read this almost a year ago at the Tire Rack, so it's possible that this isn't true.). The old R1's were asymetrical, with the inside sidewall being stiffer than the outside to provide some negative camber during cornering.

For the road course, I'd probably keep the fronts at 38 and maybe take a couple of pounds out of the rears. Of course, I've never road raced, so I'm talking out of my ass on this. :) The best thing to do is try it, measure the temps across the tire and infate/deflate to achieve consistent temps across the tire.

Street Tire Reports


The Bay Area Probe Owners Club does not endorse or avoid any specific automotive business or product. Use this information and these links at your own risk. Note: Most of this information is collected from the Probe Performance List and should be considered hearsay until YOU verify for YOURSELF. I may post parts of email messages I receive. If the author objects to this policy, I will re-edit or remove the text to satisfy you.

March 1998

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